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© Tom Beaumont 2007 Web design © Vern Beaumont 2007
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There are a few new routes at Dungecroft, all short and bouldery in style taking on high quality flowstone. Park in the main Cheyne Weares Car Park off Southwell Road and head right (as you face the sea) into the quarry. The new routes can be found on the back wall of the quarry past the 'Sex Lies and Videotape' wall, only a short walk from the car park.
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This set of four flowstone routes can be found on the back wall of the quarry (on the right as you approach) about 50m past the 'Sex Lies and Videotape' wall . Start all these routes in the trench for the full tick, some are slightly steeper than they appear at first.
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Die Screaming with Sharp Things in your Head F5
FA Jeremy Whittles 29.4.07
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This route climbs good conglomerate and flowstone to finishing holds just right of the LOs. The route farthest to the left on this wall.
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Ultrasonic Shoulder F6a+
FA Tom Beaumont 10.4.07
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Probably the best route on this wall, great flowstone all the way! A reachy move at the start and a crux finish. Low in the grade.
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Crazy Old Hippies F4+
FA Tom Beaumont 8.4.07
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Some bizarre bits of flowstone, there are quite a few hidden jugs to be found.
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Crowbar Assassin F6a+
FA Tom Beaumont 29.4.07
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Fingery and technical moves lead to the LOs of Crazy Old Hippies. Don’t use jugs off to the left for this grade. Keep an eye on the boulder to the right if you fall!
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This is the first flowstone wall encountered on the back wall of the quarry (on the right as you approach) about 30m past the 'Sex Lies and Videotape' wall.
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Covert Strike F6b
FA Tom Beaumont 29.5.07
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Start using good holds on the mini arête to the left to reach some big flat holds, continue steeply up some technical flowstone to a finishing jug left of the LOs.
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The Epicurean Paradox F6b+
FA Tom Beaumont 29.5.07
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The steepest route here which is quite cruxy. Start up Dungecroft Delight, at the first bolt of DD reach left to good holds in the fault. A big reach or a small crimp leads you up and slightly leftwards to finish up the easier flowstone.
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Dungecroft Delight F5
FA Tom Beaumont 26.5.07
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Start steeply up the flowstone covered conglomerate groove then follow the obvious tufa to the top.
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The Alpha and The Omega F3+
FA Jeremy Whittle 26.5.07
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Climb onto the interesting flowstone ledge then step left to follow the flowstone flake crack. This route takes a slightly slabby angle.
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This area is approximately 10 - 15 metres to the right of the 'Sex, Lies and Video Tape' wall.
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Heviz V2
FA Tom Beaumont 30.12.07
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Sit start under the farthest right of the rectangular quarry marks. Continue straight up the wall via a big flowstone sloper. Top out.
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Mr Fudge V2
FA Tom Beaumont 30.12.07
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Sit start under the low overhang and start using the flowstone finger ledge. Continue up the arête via side pulls to a flowstone bobble up and slightly left. Top out past a cleaned ledge. The best problem here.
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Why Not V0-
FA Tom Beaumont 30.12.07
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The easy slab.
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- - - - Way down
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Ginger Jihad VB
FA Jeremy Whittles 16.4.08
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The vague crack/groove line via a conglomerate block. |
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Lucky Pants VB
FA Tom Beaumont 4.2.08
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The easy slab with nice big conglomerate jugs.
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Cake or Death V1
FA Tom Beaumont 16.4.08
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Climb the wall above the narrow low ledge keeping right of the slim groove.
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